Garden Detective

One thing I've always appreciated about people who like to garden is that half the fun is sharing what we have. We love to dig things up and give them away to friends.

I have such a friend, Roxanne Zimmer, who lives on the corner, at the bottom of the hill. It seems every week lately, I've been greeted with a potted something or other by the garden gate when I get home from work. A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned I needed to pick up 3 'David' phlox (phloxes?) and a couple of days later, there they were. Last week, she showed up with the 3rd lily of the season and yesterday I found a blue iris.

Though her gifts haven't been completely unreciprocated -- I gave her a dozen baby yuccas over the weekend and shared some mint and maple seedlings -- Roxanne is a little over the top with her generosity. Those Davids were purchased, not divided.

And though I know she gives with a happy heart, I'm beginning to feel a bit guilty. And conflicted. No more. Please more. No more, really. What's that you got there? Those are nice. No really, I shouldn't. You keep them. Well, if you insist...

And so it goes. But that's the beauty of friendship. And gardening. Isn't it?

Time to get your vegetables into the ground.

Choose the sunniest spot in the yard and incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the soil.

Apply mulch after planting to keep the soil warm, inhibit weeds and retain water. Throughout the season, water thoroughly in the early morning hours. Hand watering is preferable to using automated sprinklers because it conserves water, minimizes leaf diseases and concentrates water where you want it (not where weed seeds are waiting to germinate).

I've selected this week's plant of the week because everyone seems to be talking about it today. It must have appeared on a morning television talk show because Google is having a field day with it. I have to tell you, though, I didn't select it because of any great experience I had with it. In fact, just the opposite.

After reading about the miracle berry plant in Logee's catalog a couple of years ago, I placed an order for the plant, which promises berries that, when chewed, affect your taste buds in such a way that anything you eat afterwards tastes sweet, even a lemon. I was curious. My kids were excited.

The plant arrived bare root, with instructions to plant in equal parts peat moss and perlite. I followed the potting instructions carefully and set the plant beside a sunny window. And waited.

Two years later, and still no berries. In fact, the plant never bloomed. Never even grew, as far as the naked eye can measure. This frustrated me to no end until about a month ago when I began to notice the leaves were getting crunchy, not at all due to improper watering. A snapped-off piece of stem revealed no green within and so I determined it was dead. Ditched it.

Alas, I never got to sample the wonders of altered taste perception. Something tells me Martha Stewart, who raved about the plant and its berries on her TV show, didn't grow the thing herself. I suspect the plant's PR people brought a specimen sporting berries to her set. That's not the way it arrives at your door.

Has anyone out there had luck with this plant? Anyone actually try the berries?

This cool shot of a ladybug hanging out with dew drops is from the AP.

Coccinella septempunctata, or ladybird beetles, are one of the few insects that aren't considered creepy by most people, kids included. Maybe fireflies, too, but that's it. Somehow, most people wouldn't think twice about squishing a spider in their home, but they'll gently carry a lady beetle outdoors to safety. Maybe it's because they're cute. They don't bite or sting, but neither do cicadas and they gross out a lot of people.

Ladybird beetles, affectionately referred to as ladybugs (though they can be either male or female), generally appear in large numbers in the fall, on light-colored and illuminated objects. They seem to prefer southwestern-facing objects and might make their way into homes through cracks and windows. They hibernate indoors until the spring, so you might be seeing some in your house right now. Those likely haven't been able to find their way outdoors.

If you find any, put them out in your garden, where they'll dine on aphids, mealy bugs, mites and scale insects, serving as a natural and very effective means of pest control. By design, ladybugs lay their eggs as close as possible to the nearest aphid colony, ensuring a steady supply of food for their predatory young and happy plants for you.

Have a aphid problem? You can purchase ladybugs at some garden supply shops, by catalog and online. I found a pack of 900 for $13.95 at Gardens Alive! (the exlamation point is part of their name.) From the website: "One package of about 900 Sta-Home adults will produce more than 10,000 pest-eating larvae in your garden within 30 days! We ship at the proper time for your area or on the date you specify."

However, if you get a crazy big swarm of them in your house come fall, like a friend of mine did for no apparent reason aside from they probably were looking for a warm place to stay, you might have no choice other than to vacuum them up. Be sure to empty the bag immediately, because when they're stressed out they release a nasty-smelling substance that will be nearly impossible to eradicate. Best to do this outdoors.

Photo by Jon Sachs, poison-ivy.org

Since poison ivy is a major cause of allergic dermatis in this part of the country -- causing unbearable itching and a really nasty looking blistery rash - let's talk a bit about avoiding it this summer.

Though I spend a lot of time in the garden, I've never personally contracted a poison ivy rash. I'm not sure if I've just been lucky or if I have some sort of immunity. I know it's out there because my husband has gotten it several times. It's good to know, though, that regardless of how ugly and contagious that rash looks, you can't catch it from another person.

The first step in avoiding the plant is being able to identify it. Here's a picture from the Cornell Cooperative Extension. Notice the leaves are made up of 3 leaflets apiece. Hence, the childhood rhyme: Leaves of three, let it be.

Poison ivy grows on a vine just under the soil surface and climbs up trees and along fences, attaching itself via aerial roots. Every part of the plant contains urushiols, which are responsible for the allergic reactions. If your gardening tools or clothing have come in contact with any part of the plant, and you touch them -- even months later -- you can get a rash. You also can get poison ivy dermatitis in the winter, when the vine has no leaves on it and appears dead. You can even get it by touching a pet that has brushed up against the plant.

That's why it's so important to remove poison ivy if you have it growing on your property. The easiest time to pull it out of the ground is early spring. Be sure to wear long sleeves, pants and gloves, and to remove clothing carefully when you're done, so as not to allow your skin to come into contact with it. Throw your clothes in the washer and jump in the shower with some TecNu soap.

And whatever you do, never burn poison ivy. The smoke would release toxins into the air, and when you inhale it, you'll get what amounts to a poison ivy rash in your lungs. It's not pretty. Bag it up carefully and set it out with the trash, tied securely closed.

Non-selective herbicides like glyphosate (the main ingredient in Roundup) and triclopyr will kill poison ivy, but keep in mind they'll also kill other plants they contact. Follow label directions carefully.

If you have a lot of poison ivy, it's best to call in a poison ivy removal expert both to protect yourself and to ensure it's removed completely.

Here's a great resource with more information from the FDA.

Photo by Bill Davis

Ever notice how most years, you only see a few cicadas. And you don't hear them chirping all that much? And then other years you find their discarded exoskeletons on everything from gas grills and swing sets to front doors and mailboxes? Ever notice how those are the years when it sounds like an Alfred Hitchcock movie outside your window every night around, say, Memorial Day?

That's because after cicadas lay their eggs, their offspring take 17 years to mature and emerge from their underground homes. Once they finally see the light of day, the males chirp their mating calls like crazy, do the nasty and die within weeks, leaving behind another batch of buried eggs that will make its presence known 17 years from now.

This brood -- Brood XVI -- is a really big one. It's expected to emerge in 13 states along the east coast, New York among them.

Though they look like scary, nasty, prehistoric beings out for blood, cicadas are completely harmless. They look like they'd bite or sting, but they do neither.

The problem is that because of their sheer numbers, sometimes in the millions, they can wreak havoc on trees and shrubs, kinda like locusts. If you just planted any young trees, you might want to protect them with some netting until around July 4.

Personally, I'm going to enjoy them while I can. They won't be back until 2025.

Map of anticipated cicada activity

Read more: Complete cicada coverage from Newsday.

... because your neighbors use lawn fertilizer and nasty chemicals.

On your side, definitely stay away from the chemicals. I won't begrudge you some fertilizer, as long as you do it properly. If you're so inclined, get ready to apply the first of two annual treatments around Memorial Day. And only use a slow- or controlled-release product.

Repeat around Labor Day, and nix the third application, formerly recommended for November; it’s no longer advised, and even illegal in some places, among them Suffolk County, where there's a ban on lawn fertilizer application between November 1 & April 1. Nassau is looking at similar legislation.

Why would fertilizer be legislated, you ask? Well, for one thing, fast-release and synthetic nitrogen is transformed into not-so-good nitrates as it breaks down into the soil, eventually leeching into the water table and even our drinking water.

What you put on your lawn directly affects the eco-system. You've all heard about prescription drugs ending up in our drinking water, right? That happens because we dispose of them -- one way or another -- into the toilet. The chemicals leech into the water table, and ground and surface water. So do chemicals and synthetic nutrients from your lawn treatments.

And there's actually proof of this. For years, actually forever, the fish population in Jamaica Bay was pretty much 50 % male and 50 % female. Now we're finding more than 95 % females there. And you know why? Hormones from birth control pills and other medications excreted into sewage systems are entering the water table -- in this example at Jamaica Bay -- and wreaking havoc with normal hormonal activity, resulting in the feminization of flounder.

In our species, a correlation has been found between those endocrine disruptors -- which also are present in laundry detergents, hair gels, shampoos and cosmetics -- and enlarged breasts in young boys.

Lawn fertilizers, especially if used improperly, can have similar devastating effects. Say you put nitrogen, which boosts foliage production, on your lawn in November, when there isn't adequate time for its absorption before the ground freezes. All that excess runs off and leeches into the ground water, eventually making it into the water table.

There's a pretty delicate balance out there in eco-system world. The food chain you learned about in 3rd grade science is real. Big things eat smaller things. Smaller things eat even smaller things, and some of those things eat plants. It's a beautiful design that has worked very nicely, keeping populations in check, since the beginning of time. Until you came along with your quest for the perfect lawn and messed it all up.

Now that excess nitrogen is making its way to Jamaica Bay and the Great South Bay and Manhasset Bay and elsewhere, and it's fertilizing those waterside plants. The ones that should remain smaller are growing out of proportion, choking out some others. This messes with the food chain, big time.

Some municipalities around the country are looking to ban phosphorus, which is represented by the middle number of the fertilizer ratio (ex: 5-10-5). It's the "P" in N-P-K, and stimulates root production and promotes flowering. Unfortunately, it also makes lakes and rivers turn green because it promotes the growth of weeds and algae at the water table.

Still intent on the perfect suburban lawn? That's O.K. There's a natural alternative to synthetic fertilizer, and not only does it supply a compatible form of nitrogen, it's actually free. Plus it will reduce your work in the garden.

I'm talking about grass clippings. No need to bag 'em up and push them to the curb. Just leave them on the grass where they fall, and they'll break down into a safe and natural fertilizer.

But if you're really into those 5-10-5 products, fine. Just follow the instructions carefully. Less is more. More can be dangerous.

Want more information? Visit the New York State SeaGrant program website.

It seems every year around this time, bookstore shelves swell with gardening tomes. Most go back whence they came after I drain my latte cup. But a select few stand out. Here are my picks for books that should actually make it out of the store. Drink up!

Click photo for a slideshow of gardening books worth reading

You might be wondering what happened to me. How my planting day went. And what my gorgeous garden looks like now that it's completed.

Well, in that order: I've been trying to fly under the radar, unnoticed; planting day was unusual, to say the least; the garden is neither gorgeous nor completed.

Yes, the landscapers showed up, ready to dig and plant. But they had instructions from the boss to plant now and create the beds later. Huh? Something about being short a truck and not having enough time and crew and I don't know what else.

I had met with him twice. Discussed cutting the beds, turning the soil, enriching it with compost and installing the plants according to my graph-paper plans.

So when faced with this reality Saturday morning, I resisted a bit, cringed, and soon came to terms with my options: Plant everything myself (not an option, considering the number of plants involved), go along with the crazy-backward scheme or send the crew away and wait until, well, I don't know until when. Probably until all my plants died in their pots. They'd been sitting out there for two weeks already.

So the plants are all in the ground. Just where I wanted them. There's some grass growing between them and the beds aren't defined. And what hurts the most is that I'm always preaching about how gardeners have only one chance to improve their soil -- BEFORE planting.

So, a bit frustrated, a little embarrassed and incredibly hopeful, I don't have any photos for you yet. But my glass is still half full: Come July 4, this will all be behind me.

I hope.

Today's the day!

I've planned, sketched, graphed to scale, erased, crossed out and ripped up. Many times. And finally I think I've got it right.

Today, the landscaping crew comes to do all the heavy lifting: Digging out beds, ammending the soil and planting 52 plants and shrubs that are sitting in pots in my backyard, which was all but destroyed last summer when two new cesspools went in.

I've got black eyed Susans, blue fescue, salvia, echinaceas, a Montgommery spruce, Limemound Spirea, clematis 'Madame Julia' (purchased because it was beautiful and also because it shares a name with my younger daughter), hosta 'guacomole', ostrich fern, Ligularia, northern sea oates, maiden grass, 13 red single Knockout roses (they're not really red; more bright hot pink), and Hameln grass. Excuse the mish-mash of common and botanical names; I'm in a hurry and typing whatever first comes to mind.

I'm off to take 'before' pictures. I only hope the crew shows up.

When is it safe to plant vegetables outdoors?

From now until the end of the month, it's prime time for planting most vegetables on Long Island. Conventional wisdom says it's safe to start planting on May 15, when the danger of frost is considered past. But personal experience has taught me to wait it out until Memorial Day. It can still get pretty chilly overnight.

Ditto for annuals. I once did in an entire flat of impatiens planted the day before Mother's Day. A couple of frosty nights and it was all over. I work too hard for my money, so I've learned to be patient.

Here are some tips to consider before you get those veggies in the ground:

• Select a location that gets at least six hours of full sunlight daily.

• Test your soil. The ideal pH range for most vegetables is 6.2 to 6.8.

• Look for varieties labeled as resistant to powdery mildew, rust and diseases.

• Incorporate lime if indicated by your pH test, slow-release fertilizer (5-10-5 or 10-10-10) and a lot of compost to the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. Work it in well.

• To protect against shock, choose a cloudy day to transplant outdoors. Place plants exactly as deep as they were in their original pots. Only tomatoes can be planted deeper, as they'll actually send out roots from underground stems. If planting in pots, tall containers are preferable to shallow ones.

• Plant in rows to allow access to all plants without compacting soil around roots.

• If support will be necessary, insert stakes into the ground when planting. Stakes installed after plants have become established might damage plant roots.

• Apply mulch to keep the soil warm, inhibit weeds and retain water.

• In the morning throughout the season, water deeply, allowing it to penetrate 5 to 6 inches into the ground. It's much better to water thoroughly less often than to water insufficiently more often.

If you think the concrete jungle is, well, jungle-less, think again. There's a growing gardening community in the big city, and it's made up of quite a creative bunch.

We're not talking window boxes here. Or tree-grows-in-Brooklyn stuff. Folks are growing unusual plants on terraces and creating lush hideaways on apartment building roofs. A couple of years ago, I met with the Manhattan Rose Society. Kind of an oxymoron, I thought at the time. But these folks were really enthusiastic and dedicated to roses.

And now, more and more city dwellers are growing their own food. Maybe it's out of necessity, what with the price of gas and milk and rice and everything. Seeds are cheap. If you play your cards right, they're even free. And a family of four can save upwards of $1,000 a year by growing their own produce.

Easy enough here on Long Island, where most of us have at least a small patch of soil to call our own. In the city, container vegetables are growing in popularity. Earth boxes are perfectly suited for balconies, but regular good old fashioned pots work, too.

I can't think of an herb that can't be grown in a pot. So basil, parsley, sage, chives, dill, mint, rosemary and thyme are no-brainers.

And here's a list of vegetables suited for containers:

Bush beans
Pole beans (in hanging baskets)
Beets
Broccoli
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Corn
Cucumbers (hanging baskets)
Eggplant
Lettuce
Peas
Spinach
Tomatoes

Planting Fields Arboretum State Historic Park in Oyster Bay is adding a new rhododendron to its plant collection. The new cultivar, 'Margaret S. Coe', is named for the daughter-in-law of William Robertson Coe, the insurance magnate and former owner of Planting Fields. The certificate of International Registration just came in from the Royal Horticultural Society in the U.K.

Local rhodie expert Richard Murcott of East Norwich developed the cultivar, which sports large mid-range pink flowers with white highlights and fainted yellow centers.

At Planting Fields, William Robertson Coe was actively involved with developing and improving the collections of rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, and hibiscus. He had a penchant for new plant varieties and modern growing techniques, and collected rhododendrons. During the estate era, thousands of large specimens were imported from all over the world. There still are more than 1,000 different types of azaleas and rhododendrons at Planting Fields.

'Margaret S. Coe' will be planted in the North Rhododendron Park on the east side of Coe Hall next fall, alongside other rhododendrons named for Coe family members.

The collection is a reflection of the New York Chapter of the American Rhododendron Society's hybridization endeavors. Plants are selected for their color, form and suitability for Long Island.

Want more? The New York Chapter of the American Rhododendron Society will host a rhododendron show and sale in the Conference Center of Planting Fields on Sunday, May 25, open to the public from 1:30 p.m. until 5:00 p.m. Admission to the show is free but there is a $6 parking fee. Cut specimens in full bloom will be displayed by class and category to illustrate the numerous mid-season varieties of rhododendrons that can be grown on Long Island.

For information, visit plantingfields.org or nyrhododendron.org.

Salvia fruticosa, in the Lamiaceae family, is known as Middle Eastern Sage or Greek Sage, has been growing in Greece for thousands of years. It's one of the earliest blooming salvias, producing blooms in early March that last about a month. What's more, it's evergreen, so it really adds to the winter and early spring garden.

According to "The New Book of Salvias: Sages for Every Garden," by Betsy Clebsch (Timber Press / $19.95), it has been "valued for centuries for its bountiful beauty" and "has medicinal and culinary properties as well as sweet nectar and pollen."

Not to be confused with Salvia divinorum, this bushy shrub grows 2 feet tall and wide, with 1-foot flower stalks above hairy grey-green foliage.

Specs: Requires full sun, hardy to 20 degrees (F), drought tolerant and suitable for xeriscaping. Propagate by seed or cuttings.

In the mint family, Greek Sage's leaves are often dried for use in tea. In its native Middle East region, insect damage forces the plant to produce galls, which are peeled off and eaten, belive it or not.

I poked around the web a bit today and found -- mostly on sites I wouldn't ordinarily visit, those with names like Vampyress and Crystal Forest -- that sage tea has been shown to cure stress and exhaustion, and improve memory, especially in old age. It made me wonder if the adjective sage, as in "sage old man," meaning "wise," was somehow related to the plant. Salvia, after all, is derived from the Latin word meaning "to heal." Hence, "salve," the ointment.

And voila! On a site called foodreference.com, I learned, "it was believed that sage stimulated the brain, therefore, increasing powers of concentration, memory and reasoning. From this, the word “sage” took on another meaning – wise person."

Over the weekend, I bought 3 salvias for my garden. I certainly won't be eating any galls, but I'll report back if my memory improves.

Photo (Salvia 'May Night') courtesy perennials.com

Ligularia dentata 'Britt-Marie Crawford' is suitable for zones 4-9 (we're in 7). Photo courtesy perennials.com

I was contemplating a few Heucheras at the nursery last weekend when I spotted a section of Ligularias staring up at me. I had discovered them awhile back and filed them away in the "must have" section of my brain. But as is often the case these days because there are too many things in my brain, it fell out.

The unusual shade-loving masterpiece of a plant has gorgeous glossy chocolate-purple foliage. Bigger than Heuchera, these leaves spread 3-4 feet and grow 2-3 feet tall. But that's not all. In late summer, flowers that resemble black-eyed Susans, without the black eyes, emerge from the center.

Deer aren't a concern for me on the western north shore of Nassau county, but if they were, they wouldn't touch it.

I bought three of them, and I'm putting them in front of a row of ostrich ferns, mixed in with some guacamole hostas.

Oh-oh. Yet another it's-too-good-to-be-true green dilemma crossed my desk today. (Read my previous post, Going green isn't black and white for background info.)

With the big push -- and looming legal deadline -- for everyone to start using those spiral "eco-friendly" CFL bulbs, one would think it's pretty safe to assume they're a no-brainer when it comes to the environment. They save a ton of energy and last way longer than standard incandescents. Right?

Not so fast, Kemo Sabe. Those CFLs contain mercury. The same mercury that was used for cavity fillings on people of a certain age, and then blamed for health problems later on. The same mercury that filled glass thermometers that heaven forbid you should bite down on by mistake. And did you ever break one of those things? The mercury separated into little balls and scattered all over the place, forcing you to hold your breath while you tried to pick them up without actually letting them touch your skin.

Aren't light bulbs a lot more delicate than thermometers? In an era when we're trying to phase out the toxic substances, what is it doing in light bulbs?

For the full story -- including instructions for the proper disposal of CFL bulbs, check out New Bulbs Have One Hitch.

According to holidayinsights.com, which apparently puts bizarre holidays on the calendar, the second week in May is officially Wildflower Week. Who knew?

To compensate for the fact that this holiday has eluded me all these years, I'd like to make it up to wildflowers everywhere by giving them a day in the spotlight.

William J. Hamilton, Jr., who was a gardener for 70 of his 82 years, consultant to Cornell Plantations for 30 years, and an emeritis professor of zoology at Cornell University, grew more than 100 different wildflowers in his 3 1/2-acre Ithaca garden. Who better to recommend native northeastern wildflowers to the Cornell Cooperative Extension in New York?

Here's his list, as published by the CCE-Sullolk:

Large White Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum). Waxy, pure white, whorled three-petaled flowers. Bloom period May-June. Petals echoed in the graceful, whorled, trio of low-growing leaves. Neutral to moderately acid soil (pH 5-7); moist or semi-dry. Partial shade or filtered sunlight. Does well on slopes; also can be cultivated on flat land. Prefers canopy of deciduous trees; does less well under evergreens. Takes 4-5 years to bloom from seed. Multiplies readily. (Ohio Dept. of Natural Resources photo)

Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia). Foam-like spikes of miniature white flowers on stalks up to 9 inches high. Blooms April-June. Plants 6-12 inches. Neutral to moderately acid soil (ph 5-7); moist. Shade. Does less well under evergreens. Light oakleaf groundcover desirable. (US Forest Service photo)

Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum). Stately brown and green-hooded flowers at base of 15- to 20-inch plant. Blooms April-June. Bears scarlet berries in August. Moderately acid soil; moist. Partial shade. Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica). Delicate, starlike white or pink petals with rose-colored veins on 4- to 6-inch fragile stalks. Blooms April-May. Plants trail on forest floor. Neutral to slightly acid soil; moist. Filtered sunlight. (Photo courtesy Robert H. Mohlenbrock @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / USDA NRCS. 1995. Northeast wetland flora: Field office guide to plant species. Northeast National Technical Center, Chester.)

Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense). Flowers hidden by leaves, maroon with a flush of soft gray green; resemble tiny stone jugs. Plants 4-6 inches. Makes good groundcover because of attractive, long-lasting foliage. Neutral to slightly acid soil; moist. Shade. (Photo courtesy Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database)

White Baneberry (Actaea pachypoda). White flowers in tight oblong clusters. Blooms April-early June. Plants 1-2 feet. Waxy white fruits with black eye, borne on red stalks. Neutral to moderately acid soil; moist. Shade or filtered sunlight. (Photo by Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database)

Black Cohosh; Bugbane; Fairy Candles (Cimicifuga racemosa). Tall candles of tiny white feathery flowers. Blooms June-Sept. Bold, showy plant 3-8 feet high. Neutral to moderately acid soil; moist to somewhat dry. Partial shade or full sun. (North Dakota State University Cass county Extension photo)

Rue Anemone (Anemonella thalictroides). Fragile flowers in shades of pink and white. Blooms March-May. Plants 4-6 inches. Lacy whorl of small, three-lobed leaves. Neutral to slightly acid soil; moist. Filtered sunlight. (Photo by Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database)

Virginia Bluebells; Virginia Cowslips (Mertensia virginica). Nodding clusters of pink buds turn into porcelain blue flowers. Blooms March-May. Plants 1-2 feet. Leaves oval, strongly veined. Nearly neutral soil (pH 6-7); moist. Partial shade. (Photo by Robert H. Mohlenbrock @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / USDA NRCS. 1995. Northeast wetland flora: Field office guide to plant species. Northeast National Technical Center, Chester.)

Herb-Robert (Geranium robertanium). Tiny trumpet-shaped, rose-colored flowers, occasionally white. Blooms all summer. Plants 6-18 inches. Strongly scented, fernlike foliage that turns bronze in fall and is retained throughout winter. Neutral or slightly acid soil; moist or dry. Full or partial shade. (Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board photo)

Hungry for more? Order Common Wildflowers of New York State from the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County. (631-727-7850)

It might also be noteworthy to mention that May 1 was Save the Rhino Day. That one just flew under my radar. And in addition to being Bird Day, May 4 is also National Candied Orange Peel Day. But, personally, I'm sorry I didn't know sooner that today was No Socks Day. I would have planned my outfit accordingly.

There's always tomorrow -- Lost Sock Memorial Day.

Lilacs are in full bloom today so what better plant to lauch the Plant of the Week series? (These full-size beauties were photographed along the Old Westbury Gardens lilac walk.)

We're coming up on prime planting season, and my inbox is flooded with requests for plant suggestions and questions about the needs of specific plants. So I've decided to launch the Plant of the Week series, starting today.

Each week, I'll pick something I like -- or a plant you've been asking about -- and profile it here. I'll show you pictures and include care instructions, sunlight requirements and any other pertinent information.

Got a favorite plant, or need some information? Drop me a line and I'll try to cover it.

Lilacs thrive in soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline pH, so your first course of action should be to test your soil with a simple pH test kit, which you'll find at your local garden center. You also can bring a soil sample to the Cornell Cooperative Extension office (visit cce.cornell.edu for details). If your soil is very acidic, add lime before planting.

Select a spot that will supply a minimum of six hours of full sunlight daily, away from downspouts and anywhere else where water might pool. Lilacs do not like "wet feet."

Space them according to their mature size to allow for adequate air circulation and avoid powdery mildew disease, to which they're susceptible. And don't pack them in tightly with perennials; they don't like the competition.

Early spring is the best time to plant lilacs, so you should do so as soon as possible. Dig a hole two to three times the size of the container, mix in some compost and plant at the same level they were at in the pot. Do not fertilize, but water thoroughly after planting, and see to it that they get 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water a week during the first season. Next year, you can give them a shot of 5-10-5 fertilizer in the early spring.

Click thumbnail below to get details about Syringa patula '‘Miss Kim', Syringa x ‘Tinkerbelle' and Syringa microphylla ‘Superba':

Profiles: Favorite dwarf lilacs

Will Wischhusen, far right, and the Botanical Training Group in Great Neck

I spent the morning visiting with the good folks in the Botanical Training Program at North Shore University Hospital's Vocational Training Center. The group, led by Will Wischhusen, comprises aspiring gardeners preparing for careers in the horticulture world.

We talked about soil pH, explored types of liming materials, discussed macronutrients and then played in the dirt, literally.

The group's eight members took turns testing two soil samples -- one from a neglected area in my backyard, the other from directly outside the building on Northern Boulevard in Great Neck. Both were surprisingly nonacidic, with readings of approximately 7.0 to 7.2.

That's some sweet soil, and unless you're planting ericaceous plants like blueberries, azaleas or rhododendrons, it's absolutely perfect. But what if your soil is more acidic, as much of Long Island soil is?

Your first course of action when planting a new area should be to get a soil test. The Cornell Cooperative Extension has walk-in counters located in Eisenhower Park in Nassau and in Riverhead in Suffolk. They'll test your sample for $5. You also can buy a test kit at most nurseries. The advantage to using the extension's service, though, is that it comes with recommendations for adjusting the pH, if necessary.

To get started: Dig down 4 inches and scoop up about 1/4 cup of soil from the area(s) you'd like to have tested. Place it in a zippered plastic bag and run a test.

The pH scale runs from 0 to 14. Readings of less than 7 indicate acid (sour) soil; higher than 7, alkaline (or sweet). Optimum pH depends on what you're planting. Pieris (andromeda), gooseberry, hemlock, creeping juniper, magnolia, pinoaks, white pines and potatoes -- in addition to azaleas, rhododendrons and blueberries -- thrive in more acidic soils. But most common garden plants require a neutral pH of around 7.0, or slightly below. So the next step is determining what pH suites your garden. (For a list of pH preferences of different plants, check out the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Nassau County fact sheet on soil acidity).

Once you know your plants' needs and your soil's reading, you can adjust the pH accordingly, if necessary. That's important because if the pH is off, nutrients won't be available to your plants. They might be in the soil, but they'll be locked up.

Most soil on Long Island is naturally acidic because of the amount of rain we get and because of our humid summers, so lowering pH usually isn't warranted.

Raising soil pH can be accomplished by adding calcium and magnesium to the soil. Both elements are present in limestone. Look for dolomitic limestone or dolomite; calcitic limestone is mostly calcium and contains only a very small amount of magnesium.

Liming materials are available in different particle sizes, which determine the speed of absorption. Like anything else, you get what you pay for. Pelletized lime is the Rolls Royce of amendments. It's fast acting and easy to spread but the most expensive of the group. Hydrated lime also is very fast, but caustic. Pulverized lime is fine and dusty and works fairly fast. Granular is slow acting and inexpensive. Your budget, obviously, but also the size of the area you're treating will determine the type of lime you purchase. If you have a small area and can afford it, go for the pelletized lime. If you're working on a acre of land, let your wallet be your guide.

Lowering soil pH is a very slow process and needs to be repeated ad nauseum. It's a never-ending uphill battle, but if you're growing ericaceous plants, you might have to consider it. Frankly, if my soil weren't suitable for acid-loving plants, I'd plant something else rather than mess with this stuff, but there are instances where it might be necessary, like if your plants are suffering from iron chlorosis (indicated by dark green veins on yellowing leaves.)

Elemental sulfur and ammonium sulfate are two elements used to lower soil pH. Ammonium sulfate also adds lots of nitrogen, which will run off and pollute groundwater something awful, but it gives instantaneous results, so people tend to prefer it. Sulfur can take weeks or months to become effective.

Use extreme care when messing with either of these. If they contact leaves, rinse immediately to avoid burns. And whatever you do, don't over-apply them.

We talked about macronutrients and micronutrients, fertilizers and how some freaky things can end up in drinking water.

In all, I'd say my morning was pretty alkaline.

I love free stuff. And when you combine free with plants, I practically foam at the mouth. So when a press release from MillionTreesNYC hit my mailbox earlier this week, my antenna went up.

There are some catches, though. Despite the group's name, there won't actually be a million trees available for "adoption." The group is giving away 1,200 trees on May 10, 17 and 18 at four Council on the Environment of NYC Greenmarkets and at the Riverdale (Bronx) YM-YWHA's Environmental Fair, with 250 trees available at each location. Also, there's a limit of one per household. You won't get to landscape your entire property, but, hey, it's a tree. And free is a beautiful thing. (The group's name actually comes from its goal to plant and care for 1 million new trees across the city’s five boroughs by 2017.)

Limited quantities of the following species of trees will be available on a first-come, first-served basis: Red Bud, Dogwood, Cherry, Crabapple, Service Berry, Linden, Sweetgum, Oak, Tulip Poplar and Buckeye.

If you happen to grab one, you'll be required to register your new tree at www.milliontreesnyc.org. I'm not quite sure why, though I wonder whether the agency will send case workers to monitor the type of home you're providing. (Is there a such thing as Arbor Foster Care for those that are neglected? If so, I personally know of dozens of abused trees in need of rescuing.)

NYRP horticulture specialists will help get you started, with instruction on how to plant properly and then send you on your merry way. If you don't have a yard, as is likely the case for the many apartment dwellers who attend these events, there will be opportunites to get your hands dirty, anyway. Info will be available on volunteer opportunities, educational programs and, of course, contributing to MillionTreesNYC.

Here are the details:

• Saturday, May 10
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Borough Hall CENYC Greenmarket – Staten Island, St. Mark’s and Hyatt

• Saturday, May 10
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Grand Army Plaza CENYC Greenmarket – Brooklyn Prospect Park NW Entrance

• Sunday, May 17
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Inwood CENYC Greenmarket – Upper Manhattan Isham St., Seaman & Cooper

• Saturday, May 17
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Sunnyside CENYC Greenmarket – Queens, Skillman between 42nd and 43rd streets

• Sunday, May 18
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Riverdale YM-YWHA Environmental Fair – Bronx, 5625 Arlington Ave., at 256th Street

Earlier this week, lawn-care giant Scotts recalled four of its lawn and garden products that contain weed suppressants never approved by the Environmental Protection Agency. They are Miracle Gro Shake 'n Feed with Weed Preventer All Purpose Plant Food, Scotts Bonus S MAX, Scotts Turf Builder MAX and SLS Fertilizer with .28 Halts.

The products were not contaminated. There weren't any bad batches. That might be understandable. But according to the press release, "two of the products have not been registered with EPA and two of the products were registered but are not properly labeled." The company has reportedly blamed the error on a former employee.

Um. Maybe it's me, but wouldn't you think it's safe to assume that in this great country of ours products that require registration would be, well, registered before hitting store shelves? We're not talking about a mom-and-pop operation here. Scotts is a publicly-traded company that pulled in $2.9 billion in net sales last year. Its products are sold pretty much all over the planet. How does one single person have such control in a company like that?

I don't want to get into a debate about Scotts' business practices, but since lots of people use its products in their gardens, the recall makes it necessary to talk about alternatives.

I’m not a big fertilizer person. In fact, I have never, ever fertilized my lawn. I've never quite understood the whole suburban obsession with perfect turf. Mine is nearly half weeds, but when it’s neatly mowed (which is isn’t right now), you’d never know it. Green is green, whether it’s grass or amputated dandelions. For my purposes, it's a lawn.

I try to garden responsibly – just like I try to eat well – but I'm not an extremist in any facet of my life. And while I’ve been known to indulge in the occasional sack of White Castle cheeseburgers, I’d rather my lawn go without weed killers than smother it in chemicals.

I do, however, give my perennials an occasional dose of 5-10-5. I’ve used Miracle-Gro in the past, and in all fairness, I’ve seen good results. A couple of years ago I discovered a product called Worm Poop that worked wonders on my tomatoes. Another "plant food,” Dynamite, which was bestowed with EPA’s Gulf Guardian Award, has served my perennials well.

Regardless of the brand you buy, pick one with a slow-release formula, which is best for the environment with less excess to run off into ground water. They're also better for your plants. And look for one that contains micro nutrients like magnesium, copper, boron, iron and molybdenum in addition to the usual nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K). Dynamite offers both benefits, plus it contains ammoniacal nitrogen instead of the more-common urea, which can contribute to groundwater pollution and is found even in some organic fertilizers.

And what about weeds? Why not try all-natural corn gluten? Applied before weed seeds germinate, it's a good alternative to products containing trifluraline.

If you have any of the recalled Scotts' products, don't use them. Call 888-295-0671 for instructions on getting a refund. Other Scotts products are unaffected by the recall.

Open Days photos

It's that time of year again -- the time when voyers such as myself finally get to see what's lurking in strangers' backyards. Over the next 3 months, private gardens will open to the public for a $5 admission fee, which will benefit the Garden Conservancy, sponsor of